Diane’s Garden at Chenonceau
While staying near Amboise we drove to the castle at Chenonceau, about 10 miles. We got there late in the afternoon, as we were warned the place would be very crowded earlier in the day.
In the 16th Century King Henry II gave Chenonceau to his long-time mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Reversing the usual pattern, she was 20 years older than the king. Dr. Freud has never analyzed the relationship.
Anyhow, Diane built a garden within walls the shape of a square. It was the kind of formal garden I generally don’t like, but I found myself appreciating it anyway.
It was built with a fountain at the center, surrounded by a circular path. Straight walkways at regular intervals led from the fountain to paths parallel to the walls, creating grassy triangles.
An odd aspect of this garden was that it lay completely open, with nothing hidden. There were no trees, no shade, no little private nooks of any kind. Perhaps Diane sought to discourage intrigues against her.
Also, the garden’s large size diminished any sense of enclosure that might be gained from the walls. Then there were the meatballs made of yew and boxwood that tend to set my teeth on edge.
So what did I like about this garden? Well, I liked the surrounding walls, which provide an elevated promenade as well as views of the chateau.
I liked the giant planters full of tender geraniums. I also surprised myself by liking the curly cue miniature gray hedges of Santolina.
And I liked the selection of flowering plants. I was especially taken with the venerable Hibiscus plants, grown as standards with thick trunks that made me think of olive trees.
Also beds full of Gaura, English Daisies, Begonias, Artemesia, etc.
Well, back to Diane and Henry. Henry eventually was killed in a tournament. His long-suffering wife, Catherine de Medici, took the opportunity to kick Diane out of Chenonceau and move into it herself. She then built her own garden up river from the castle, which I’ll write about in another post.
Do you enjoy formal gardens with everything laid out in one open space? It’s not something I would want for myself, but somehow I liked Diane’s garden at Chenonceau.
gardeninacity 
Very interesting. I had not heard of this garden before.
I had never heard of it before this trip.
I have been watching the TV show Reign, and they have Diane younger than the King, at least by appearance. What an odd pairing in real life. I must say France in the mid fifteen hundreds was a very lavish time.
Never heard of Reign, I’ll have to check it out. Not surprised they made Diane younger on TV. Seems like the Loire Valley was like the Hamptons of its time.
I agree that typically formal gardens are not my thing, but I really enjoy it when they are well done and well designed. I love the thought that goes in to them.
I think I can appreciate a garden with really good structure, but I don’t appreciate excessive shaping of the plants.
Nice to see some photos of that garden – I went years ago, but only got shots of the chateau. I am also not fond of formal gardens and this one seems so exposed, as you say. I like to turn a corner in a garden and be able to gasp with surprise at a new view! Look forward to the next post about Catherine’s garden.
I agree that it is important to have a little mystery in the garden, it increases the interest of a smaller space.
I’m very much a cottage gardener, BUT I absolutely love looking at the formal gardens and am always in awe of the skill and maintenance required to keep them so beautiful.
Nice to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there!
Formal gardens were meant to reassure us that man could dominate nature. Now that we feel man dominates nature too much, we want gardens that are more in tune with nature. Each period has its garden styles. I like the feeling of peace and orderliness formal gardens provide. They look very “settled” and timeless whereas our gardens are warm and friendly. There is room for both kinds.
That’s a good insight, it makes sense that with nature in rapid retreat we want to evoke her in our gardens today.
I’m not a big fan of formal gardens. I love your posts about your trip!
Thanks!
It is very structured and organised, but also very beautiful I think.xxx
It’s partly the setting and the view of the chateau.
Starting with a big stone wall like that it’s hard to not like this garden. Love the planter of geraniums above the bench. I do appreciate formal gardens, just don’t have the patience for growing one. I love to plop in a plant any old place…
I didn’t like Versailles, I found that over the top. Of course, at Versailles the scale is ridiculous. On the plus side, it did have lots of small garden rooms enclosed by hedges.
Like you there are parts of formal gardens that I like-herbal knot gardens are appealing-but in general I’m not crazy about them.
In general, too constrained and fussy. And yet, there can be something that appeals …
I generally hate even my own hardy hibiscus trees, but seeing them with gnarled old trunks really brings them up a notch! and I’m a little ashamed to admit I like the meatballs and have been trying to grow a couple of my own 🙂 but no, overall I’m not crazy about this garden. I would of course love to visit, but it’s not something I’d need to have in front of my chateau…. maybe I’d put it somewhere in the side yard.
Just what is the appeal of the green meatballs? When I look at them, all I can think of is trying to shape them into a perfect sphere, and imagining how I would keep shaving off slices on one side and then the other until nothing is left.
Interesting story behind the garden. I usually do appreciate formal gardens but like you, I wouldn’t want one for myself.
Yes, this is a garden with a very entertaining history.
I think it’s about the correct design in the right place. That is especially true of historic gardens which I love seeing planted in the style they would have been by the origional owners. what I really enjoy is a combination of formal clipped plants and free flowing unpruned ones creating a really strong design.
I agree, and I think we saw that type of garden in England. I think the both gardens at Chenonceau were strongly influenced by the Italians. Does it look that way to you?
Formal gardens are not my style but I do appreciate the beauty in the symmetry. I too am not fond of the meatball look.
Looks like it was a nice trip nonetheless.
Yes, it was a great trip, and we saw many more gardens.
Not usually what I would plant but I also liked it and had to gaze at it a long time…wow.
It was great for strolling, also.